Parker Berman
This recipe may seem daunting, but it can actually be done with little stress. The fries are time-consuming, which allows a laid-back preparation of other items. Still, the meal can easily be made by two people, one making steak and salad, with the other making fries.
I don’t think there is a single dish more simple yet elegant than steak frites. This is a dish that fits on the tables of fine restaurants and Street-Side brasseries, in old-fashioned French restaurants and new-world modern eateries. Each component of the steak frites is essential: steak, sauce, and fries. Little is more disappointing than steak frites with a wonderful sauce but a poor fry to dip, or excellent fries with a mediocre sauce. Personally, I like a nice, acidic, green salad to go with what is an otherwise heavy and rich dish.
Most of the common American cuts of beef don’t quite do the trick, as they use their size and tenderness to make up for a terrible lack of flavor. I love a good ribeye or New York, but while tender, these steaks often lack the rich beefiness needed for the right sauce. They are typically enormous as well – about 4-5oz of beef per person is perfect for this meal. Below are a few options for great steak frites steaks.
Hanger Steak
Also known as “onglet,” this is my favorite cut of the cow. Full of flavor these steaks come in long strips and should be cut into portions after cooking. It always amazes me that while there is only one hanger steak per cow, they are typically half the price of a ribeye or New York, often even cheaper than a sirloin. Hanger steaks are, however, tough to find; the only place I have seen them in the Pacific Northwest is Whole Foods, though you can always ask the butcher to order them for you. If you have a local butcher, ask if they have them /can get them, and then promptly clean out their stock.
Bavette Steak
“The butcher’s cut” in France, I’ve recently begun to see these little steaks (Wagyu no less) at Haggen. These steaks are perfect portions, so purchase one for each person eating. Bavette steaks can also be made easily – ask your butcher for the thickest flank steak they have and ask it be cut into 4-5 oz strips against the grain. Now you have yourself some bavette steaks.
Flat Iron
A bit more common and often for sale at PCC is the Flat Iron. Unlike the hanger and bavette steaks I usually find these vacuum-packed rather than in the butcher’s case.. Treat this the same way you would the above Bavette and cut against the grain into single-serving strips. I like flat irons just fine, but if you have either of the above as an alternative, those would be my choice
Pro-Tip:
Small, leftover bits from the butchered steaks can be cut into bite-sized pieces, marinated for 30 minutes in a mixture of ⅓ cup soy sauce and 2 tbsp sugar, and then sauteed until cooked for steak tips. Save the leftover marinate and, when the steak tips are done, remove them and add the marinade to the pan, reducing by half, then adding two tablespoons of butter for sauce.
Ingredients
For the Steaks:
Chosen steak (4-5oz per person)
¾ cup or 180mL white wine
1 cup or 235mL chicken stock
3 tbsp demi-glace (in paste form)
3 tbsp butter
Cooking oil
For the Fries
A russet potato for each person + 2
Salt
High-heat oil (peanut, sunflower, safflower, etc), enough to fill the size of fryer being used
For a Salad (the dressing should make enough for three-four salads)
1-2oz mixed greens per person
¼ cup olive oil
½ tbsp honey
½ tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
Optional additions (I recommend one or two)
● Goat cheese, 1-2oz per person
● Apples – ¼ of an apple per person, thinly sliced
● Blackberries or raspberries
● Parmesan cheese shavings
● Toasted or candied walnuts, pecans, or almonds
Steak Frites starts and ends with the fries. The fries take the most work, require the most attention, and are generally the most demanding. If you plan to make fries often (and really, you should), you should consider investing in a fry-cutter. These have grid-shaped blades that will split the potatoes right into a fry-shape. If you are not using a fry cutter be sure to get your batons as consistent in size as possible to ensure even cooking. Cut fries should be placed in a bath of cold water to remove excess starch.
While the fries are enjoying their cooling and refreshing bath, remove the steaks from the refrigerator so they can begin to warm.This will allow them to cook faster and more evenly.
Remove the fries from the water and pat dry using a cloth towel. This is imperative, as too much water in or on the fries could easily cause a grease fire.
Now, here is where it can become a bit of a juggling act. Fry preparation takes time based on the amount of potatoes being made, and thus the number of people being served. Steaks meanwhile, will take about the same amount of time whether you make two, four, or six. I also can’t tell you how many batches of fries will be necessary for the potatoes – I don’t know the size of your fryer. But here’s what I can tell you:
Heat your fry oil to 250-265*F, this will take up to 15 minutes. My fryer holds roughly 2.5 cups of potatoes in volume, and one can estimate roughly one batch for each potato. Given this size, I cook the fries in batches, six minutes per batch. Make sure that all of the fries are completely covered by the oil, and shake the fry basket once or twice per batch so that they don’t stick together. Have a bowl ready for the cooked fries. After the first batch, taste one of the cooked fries. I know, an oily potato doesn’t sound appealing, but you should make sure that the fries are cooking until they are soft. Some fryers may require additional cooking time to fully-cook the potato.
Then, while the fries are being made in their first batch, prepare the salad and dressing. Portion the arugula into bowls and add any of your additional toppings. Then, for the dressing, combine all of the ingredients, except for the oil, and stir together. Pouring the oil such that only a thin stream pours into the dressing, whisk forcefully (almost like beating an egg) to combine the oil and vinegar mixture. This allows air to enter the dressing for a creamier texture and for it to better maintain consistency (You could also use an immersion blender). Set aside salads and dressing for serving.
Are your fries done yet? No? I know, it takes a while, but trust me, it’s worth it.
Take the steaks out of the packaging, butcher if necessary (see above), and season generously with salt and pepper. Take out a skillet, preferably cast-iron.
Return to your fries. Are they all cooked and in that first metal bowl? Excellent. Turn up the heat on your oil so that it reaches 375°. Be careful, it will boil aggressively and may even spew out droplets. It should take five to ten minutes to heat, and once the boiling subsides, you will be able to add in the first batch of fries
Now here is where it takes some managing: the second frying for the fries takes six minutes, and the steaks take about fifteen. What I like to do is time it so that the steaks are ready around the same time as the second batch of fries (with my fryer there are usually four to six batches). Heat the pan for the steaks on high heat (medium if using non-stick), and add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Once that oil ripples add the steaks to the pan (don’t let it get that hot if you do not have a fan over the stove). Sear on both/all sides until they are cooked inside – about 115° for medium rare (they will rest to temperature). Transfer the steaks to a plate and cover with foil.
Immediately pour the wine into the pan and allow it to reduce by ¾. Once it has done so, add in the chicken stock and whisk in the demi-glace until the demi is fully dissolved and the stock has reduced by at least a half. Mix in any juice that has dripped from the steaks and remove from heat, adding the butter and allowing it to melt.
If the steaks have cooperated and cooked in a timely manner then they and their sauce should be ready right as the second batch of fries are. Plate up and begin to eat, finishing the fries as the meal begins and enjoying the warm, early ones.